Alumlprep 33 is an acidic metal cleaner and conditioner expressly compounded for aluminium. Prepares aluminium and its alloys for painting or welding. Detailed Product Description: Alumiprep 33® is a non-flammable phosphoric acid-based cleaner, brightener. and pre-paint conditioner for aluminum. Alumiprep. CERTIFICATE OF CONFORMANCE INCLUDED Alumiprep 33® is a non- flammable phosphoric acid-based cleaner, brightener and pre-paint conditioner for.
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It will come out with a “chalky” tone too it. Just follow the instructions for application. It will turn out fine. If the part is starting to turn dark, that’s too long.
This all depends upon your definition of “durable barrier” between substrate and environment. They use prep 33 alumnipre; alodine all xlumniprep time.
Some that are sheet metal specialist. Nothing wrong with that as far as I know, but if you get it right, the part almost looks like it’s anodized.
I was thinking that there was some more technical reason that people were prepping the alclad. You’re eating up metal at that point. No registered users and 1 guest. Only time will tell who is right. But the normally recomended cleaner is Alumiprep Don’t leave the part in the alodine too long. Therin lies the variable of what each builder considers the best, most durable barrier alumniptep their airplane and it’s intened useage. Alclad is a top layer of pure aluminum applied to the for corrosion protection.
The question, why scuff up or “prep” alclad before treating it with alodine. It is pretty much all I am doing.
If you are doing small parts in a “bath”, remember that alodine does not last forever. I think it comes down to your individual plans 3 your specific aircraft.
Alumiprep Metal Cleaner & Alodine Chrome Conversion Coating – Chief Aircraft Inc.
These suggestions are purely based on my own years of trial and lots of error. I guess metal prep is a real sensitive area. Any one have experience in using this cleaner, or can they recommend another cleaner and surface prep soluiont. A few suggestions about it’s use: This is the stuff of primer wars.
Then they put a 2 part 333 primer on. First to cover the scratches and the other is where 2 pieces of metal are put together mosture can get traped between the pieces. The alodine is really needed where there is no corrosion protection. I understand the religious debates, but there doesnt seem to be many “just clean it and dump it in alclad for a few minutes” believers out there.
Then you have the temper number, ie. How are you guys disposing of your spent alumaprep and alodine?
Listing: Alodine & Alumniprep
Keep the part wet between alumiprep and alodine. Don’t leave the part in the alumiprep too long. You cannot get the Alodine to work on without first treating with the Alumaprep You will find that it takes longer aumniprep get that even colour you are looking for. I ask them about preping and primeing when the metal has an alkalad surface.
The bottle states not to use on high copper alloy aluminum. Who is online Users browsing alumnipre forum: If you consider the alclad durable enough, then by all means leave it alone! They said 2 reasons. The reason I asked was to make sure my next statement or question wasnt based on incorrect data. It would seem to me that theres no need to worry about alumhiprep the metal where the alclad is in good shape.
The alumiprep leaves the aluminum bare, and it will oxidize as soon as the air hits it.
After you rinse off the alumiprep, don’t let the part dry off. So why scrape it away and scuff it up just to replace it with an 333 generated coating?